Yangmingshan, or Yangming Mountain, in suburban northern Taipei has long been a favorite springtime destination for city dwellers who want to stroll with their families or friends along mountain paths among flowering trees and shrubs and plants high above the hubbub and pollution of the city.

        The Yangmingshan flower-viewing season lasts about one month from late February to late March, although there is an abundance of flowers that can be enjoyed for weeks before and after that time.

        This year, according to Yangmingshan National Park authorities, more than 1 million people visited the area during the first three weeks, surging to as many as 120,000 per day on weekends, oblivious to the often cold, rainy weather. During that peak month-long period, city hall and park authorities make a special effort to maintain orderly traffic and ensure an enjoyable time for all.

        Four main types of flowers delight the eye on Yangmingshan: cherry blossoms, wild peach blossoms, azaleas and camellias, of which the latter two are flowering shrubs. There are many more types of flowers gracing the mountain, however, including lower-growing plants, some wild, others planted along walkways. One of the most familiar landmarks on the mountain is a giant floral clock.

        During the past couple of years, there have been a growing number of zealous flower viewers who, as a sort of ritual, hold late-night vigils to witness the opening of cherry blossoms, which, more than any other type of flower, is considered symbolic of spring and rebirth.

        There are about 2,000 cherry trees of various species on Yangmingshan. About 10 out of the world's 200 or so species of cherry trees are found in Taiwan, six of them indigenous. The most commonly seen, representative species in Taiwan is the Prunus campanulata Maxim, known locally as the mountain cherry and, outside of Taiwan, as the Taiwan cherry. This indigenous species is very robust, able to adapt to the warmer temperatures of lowland areas in the northern part of the island. Besides Taiwan, it is found throughout South China, Japan and the Ryukyu Islands.

        The Taiwan cherry can reach eight to 10 meters in height and is most commonly found in mountain areas at elevations between 400 meters and 2,500 meters. Its bell-shaped flowers, which dangle from the tree stems with their openings downward, are generally a vibrant crimson hue, although in some areas they are pinkish.

        Though not especially admired by the Japanese who once colonized Taiwan (1895-1945) and whose love of cherry blossoms influenced earlier generations, blossoms of the Taiwan cherry are much loved by Taiwanese because in local tradition, red is the most auspicious of colors. Its fruit, also a brilliant red, is quite literally for the birds, as its taste is too bitter for human consumption.

        Five other commonly seen indigenous cherry species are Prunus matuurai Sasaki, Prunus taiwaniana Hay, Prunus grisea Kalkm, Prunus takasagomontana Sasaki and Prunus transorisanensis Hay. Locally, they are known, respectively, as Taipingshan mountain cherry, Wushe cherry, Lanyu wild cherry, Shan white cherry and Alishan mountain cherry.

        Another cherry species introduced to Taiwan from Japan in 1916, Prunus Iannesiana Wils, is extraordinary in that its flowers can be either pink or greenish yellow. A private cherry orchard not far from the floral clock is planted with 70 trees that are crossbreeds of this kind of cherry and the Taiwan cherry. Many visitors to the mountain are willing to pay a US$3 entry fee to take a walk among these unique trees.

        In earlier decades, the Jhuzihhu area in Yangmingshan National Park used to be a popular destination for cherry blossom viewing because, about 90 years ago, the Japanese colonizers planted many cherry trees there. There are a lot fewer now, however, and, since 1969, Jhuzihhu has become known, instead, as the kingdom of calla lilies. This year, the 13 hectares of land devoted to calla lily cultivation will produce about 2.5 million flower stalks, accounting for 90 percent of the island's production of that flower.

        This year, the annual Jhuzihhu calla lily festival will last from March 26 to April 16. During that time, hundreds of thousands of visitors will pick their own lilies at a very low price. US$3 will buy you a big bunch of them.

        In recent years, the sea of white calla lilies in Jhuzihhu has becomes a popular backdrop for wedding photos. Under the influence of Western culture, white has been transformed from a symbol of death to a symbol of purity of love.

        For those in the Taipei area who would rather not take the time to go up the mountain but still want to fill their eyes and noses with the sights and smells of spring, there are several alternative destinations closer at hand that are planted with flowers galore. These include the grounds of the residence of former President Chiang Kai-shek and Shuangsi Park near the base of Yangmingshan, as well as Fulin Park, the Floriculture Experiment Center and Lin Yu-tang House.

        Several other mountainous areas in Taiwan are also popular destinations for springtime flower viewing. These include Taipei County's Wulai in the mountains south of Taipei City, Wushe in central Taiwan's Nantou County, and Alishan--or Mt. Ali--in southcentral Taiwan's Chiayi County.

        Many call Wushe the "capital of cherry blossoms." Come springtime in the early decades of the 20th century, the Wushe area became a sea of white Prunus taiwaniana Hay cherry flowers, thanks to the many trees of that species planted during the Japanese colonial era. Although the number of trees has declined, there is still enough to satisfy cherry blossom enthusiasts. Visitors are also drawn to Wushe by its hot springs.
        For many Taiwanese, however, Alishan is the top choice for viewing cherry blossoms, most of its trees belonging to the species Prunus transorisanensis Hay.

        Among the other types of flowers that can be seen in the Yangmingshan area, it is the azalea--Taipei's city flower--that dominates. From March to May, profusely blooming azalea bushes with a wide range of colors--from pure white and pale pink to fire-engine red and deep red-purple--are found everywhere on the mountain. This year, an additional 20,000 azaleas were planted on Yangmingshan, and pots of a new "high-mountain azalea" hybrid with bigger, more vibrantly colored flowers developed by the Floriculture Experiment Center are on display in the plaza in front of the giant floral clock.

        Closer to the ground, a profusion of wild impatiens with pink, orange and red flowers also adorns Yangmingshan as well as other mountainous areas around the island throughout the winter and spring months.

        A study recently conducted by the Flower Association of Japan indicates that all cherry trees in Japan could be wiped within a decade by "witches' broom mold," which first impairs the ability to produce flowers. This would be a great tragedy, as the cherry blossom is Japan's nation flower. So far, Taiwan's trees have shown no sign of infection.